Before moving forward with a closer look at the Ancon X-35 Concept, I'll address the elephant in the room - the dial design of the Ancon X-35 Concept is almost identical to those from SevenFriday and their popular P1 line. The Ancon X-35 Concept and the SevenFriday P1 are fairly different watches in terms of shape and style, but they use identical movements and the Ancon X-35 Concept borrows heavily from the P1. I can't speak as to why Ancon made this decision, but it's certainly hard to ignore and will undoubtedly bother some readers. I'd wager that, due to differences in pricing and overall look and feel, these watches will appeal to different groups of buyers and for those interested in both, they may actually appreciate the expanded range of options. As always, feel free to let us know what you think in the comments.
The Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date features many more complications than the brand’s other chronographs that have come before it. The 1960s Chronograph, Senator XL Chronograph, and the now retired Navigator Chronograph all featured versions of the Calibre 39 movement. These chronographs are all non-date models, featuring a bi-compax layout with two subdials. The Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date adds several complications that are a first for Glashütte Original: a big (panorama) date, flyback, 12-hour register, and a power reserve meter. As it is their first column wheel chronograph, the button action is noticeably smoother than their other chronographs. In their press release for the piece, Glashütte Original describes the column wheel mechanism as simplified and containing fewer individual parts than a typical column wheel chronograph. The flyback complication allows the watch to be stopped, reset, and started again by pressing the bottom pusher while the chronograph is running. This is another first for Glashütte Original.
This lends itself to some pretty good customer service at times, but getting things done in Mexico isn't always particularly quick or thought out. In fact, one of the reasons I feel that people in places such as Mexico, Russia, or various places in Asia are enamored with Swiss watches is because, in a sense, they represent a way of approaching problem solving completely absent where they live.
The Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver features the now ubiquitous HEV, or helium release valve. I, as probably every single other owner of this watch, do not expect to make use of this feature, but it adds a bit of style to the side of the case and helps justify the price. It’s the automatic variety, so it is well integrated, and does not create an additional protrusion. I’ve heard the argument that this is another potential leak point if it were to be used for conventional diving, but I’ve never actually heard of this failure occurring, so I’m not worried about it.
ABTW: Do you serve mostly locals or tourists, or is it a good mix? Also, what percentage of your customers would you call "knowledgeable watch collectors?"
Of course, the Zenith Pilot Type 20 GMT 1903 also has a unique style of caseback engraving and is limited to almost four times as many pieces. Further, it also carries a price premium of 0 retail. On the wrist, the 48mm wide case is of course even larger with the bund-style strap that has a wide piece of leather that goes completely under the case. I do however believe that this extra piece of leather can be removed and the watch can look "normal" on just two strap pieces and not the underside.
Pininfarina worked hard to ensure there was a bit of "old world royalty" in the design, as well as a modern flair that would appeal to today's high-end sports car or yacht owner. Christophe & Co. will also have special versions of the Christophe & Co. Armill for various markets with some "local flavor." For example, Christophe & Co. Apollo Armills come with hand decoration, and for the Chinese market, they will have engraved dragons, while for the Russian market, they will have St. George slaying a dragon. With that said, Christophe & Co. maintains its dedication to "serious exclusivity" with a desire to push personalization services for each of its products. The comfort angle of this involves not only sizing the Christophe & Co. Armill bracelets to each customer, but also ensuring the precise amount of Alcantara leather over the memory foam inserts.
There are official and unofficial ways of getting a watch. Official places to purchase new watches include authorized dealers who carry a range of brands, as well as brand boutiques that carry products from just one brand. Some watch companies make their timepieces "officially available" for purchase online (either directly on their site or via third-party authorized dealers) and some don't. Unofficial ways of buying watches include a host of "gray market" dealers who aren't authorized dealers but acquire timepieces in a range of ways.
IAT is no boutique; the event offers unlimited access to all watches, and hands-on is the rule, not the exception. At “It’s About TIME” Get-Togethers for Watch Enthusiasts, watch fans from the Greater Miami Area are assured of VIP access to the best of times.
Kelly Rowland: I was already a fan of the TW Steel watches. What happened was a couple years back, I stole my best friend's TW Steel watch – the big face drew me in. It was actually a men’s watch: I loved the fact that it was so masculine, but on my wrist. As a female, sometimes you need that kind of energy! And then I had a mutual friend who introduced me to the TW Steel family: it continued very organically from there. Now I’m like the “first lady” of the company – a strong female presence surrounded by all this masculine energy, representing timeless style and class. That’s what I bring to the line.
While the single winder is certainly compact at 4.3 × 4.3 × 5.9 inches (that is 11×11×15 centimeters) and occupies a relatively small amount of space on your desk or shelf, it is not that light or compact that I would recommend it for taking with you traveling. However, if such weird circumstances arose, it is good to know that the winder can also be operated by two AA batteries - in addition to the DC mains, obviously. On the back of this tiny, glossy box, you will find the AC socket, the AA battery compartment, and two small dials to operate the winder mechanism with.
The Hamilton Khaki Takeoff Limited Edition uses Hamlton's H-31 automatic chronograph movement that is based on the ETA/Valjoux 7750 but boasts an improved power reserve of 60 hours, as well as modifications for improved accuracy and additional Hamilton branding. The movement offers time, chronograph and date, with the date showing at three via a white wheel with black text. Hamilton has finished this limited edition piece with an anti-reflective sapphire crystal and 50-meter water resistance.
Fast forward 2 years, and then we launched GUESS watches, which were simplistic watches with metal cases and fashionable dials and straps. The rest is history. From there, the entire category took hold and developed into the meaningful business that it is today.
Rolex watches are built with the precision of scientific instruments and they are among the few watches that you can inspect with a magnifying glass and still appreciate so many areas of perfection. Whether or not you are looking at the 18k white gold hands and hour markers (which are tarnish resistant), or the polishing on the steel case, Rolex does its best to imbue a product like this with a real sense of perfection.
For me, I would have a hard time justifying the replacement of what my various electronic calendars can do (where have I heard that argument before?). If these are the watch waters you swim in, however, this is a very slick "under the radar" sort of a watch that I certainly understand the appeal of. If you pick one up, just make sure one of the twelve dates is the day you read about the watch here on ABTW, alright? aspenjewelryandwatches.com
The timepiece is powered by an in-house caliber GP09300-0001 manual wound movement, equipped with a variable inertia balance wheel vibrating at 21,600 Vib/h or 3 Hz and equipped with a 60-hour power reserve. This caliber was specifically designed for the tri-axial tourbillon. At the plate side, the company's iconic pink gold arrow-shaped bridges are fastened on a smoothly finished modern-looking black plate creating a visual link between the company's focus on the future and its commitment to the past. Below the traditional rose gold bridges, the word TRI-AXIAL is engraved on a satin-finished circular bridge supporting the differential of the tourbillon. Below that is the rose gold label which indicates the number placement of the watch within the limited edition. The manufacturer's symbol, as well as "34 jewels" and Swiss GP 9300 is stamped on the black portion of the plate.
I asked George what his relationship was with Rolex proper and whether it was non-existent or hostile. The look on his face more or less said it all. A darkness fell over his typically cheerful smile that I only now feel that I fully understand. I have little doubt that the two companies have squabbled, but for George the fighting is probably something that he takes personally, outside of the business side of any dispute. If there is anyone that can stand up to Rolex's admittedly impressive legal might, it is Mr. Bamford. That, however, isn't what perhaps strikes Bamford the most. In George's mind, he is probably one of Rolex's biggest fans, not only expending huge amounts of time and resources dedicated to artistic re-visioning of their products, but also the last 10-11 years of his life. And to have it met with hostility is probably upsetting, to say the least.
The aptly named Parmigiani Ovale Tourbillon is named as such because of the interesting oval-shaped case of the Ovale timepiece family. This style came out for Parmigiani about 1-2 years ago and looks remarkably better on the wrist than one might expect, given the unorthodox shape of the case. In addition to being a pretty decent tourbillon-based timepiece, I think something like the Parmigiani Ovale Tourbillon is good foundation on which to talk about the pros and cons of non-round case shapes.
Another way that many watch makers mess up the hands on pilot watches is by putting black hands on a black or dark dial. Often these watches have hands with lume-painted interiors, but the end result is hands that look much smaller than they actually are. I quite frankly hate this, and only a few brands such as IWC tend to consistently produce these hands with the right materials so that they appear proper on the dials. What Orient did was even more simple, and create totally white hands save for the ends. This means that the hands never look smaller than they are - which is a very good detail on a watch at this extremely affordable price point.
You see, it's difficult to make everyone happy, even a 1,000 meter water resistant tourbillon watch has its limitations. We hope Bill is doing better now – and if you are reading this, Bill, let us know what watch you ended up using for your lava diving adventures!
The winder comes with a remote control that allows for setting it up without having to open the large, wood and glass door that hides the main section of the box. Behind the glass is a rather large, white on blue digital display that allows for setting up the two winding motors separately. It is easy to use, highly legible, and definitely does not feel as cheap as similar small screens often do on other appliances. One gets to choose the winding rotation, the TPD (with an additional 1950 setting beyond those seen on the Barrington Single Watch Winder), as well as a motor selector and an LED on/off setting.