Given that the twelve pieces will be offered at auction, we cannot comment on the prices of the pieces – what we do know, however, is that they can be bid on between October 22nd and November 9th, 2014, via the Chivas website. It should be interesting to see how well these twelve pieces will perform – especially when compared to the historically more important pieces of Bremont. The Chivas 12 Made for Gentlemen by Bremont limited edition packaged whisky will be made available globally from September. bremont.com
As a dive watch 100 meters of water resistance might not sounds like all that much, but it is actually more than enough for most divers. What I like is that in this case 100 meters of water resistance actually means "100 meters," and not some other number. Most of you know what I am talking about, but there is of course an issue with watches being labeled "100 meters water resistant" when all you can do is light swimming with them. So what I like is that the depth rating and depth gauge represent what people actually do. There isn't a depth gauge for 1000 meters where people would be long since dead going down that deep.
Just about a year before the exhibition, we were invited by Breguet to learn more about the upcoming exhibition and also to go hands-on with some absolutely astonishing pocket watches that A-L. Breguet himself crafted some two centuries ago.
There are companies that produce movements in-house that they did not originally design, or that they perhaps only modified a bit. For many watch companies, the rules of patent law are on their side. Mechanical watch movement technology is often rather old, so when patents expire, many types of movements or parts of movements may be freely produced by anyone with the skill and machinery to do so. There are also a lot of companies that go to specialists to produce movements for them. Some smaller brands with the desire to have unique movements, often go to one supplier to design the movement, and another supplier to produce it. These movements are indeed unique and exclusive, but they are neither in-house made nor designed.
The ETA 2894-2 is a modular chronograph movement based on the 2892, hence the 12.3 mm thickness. With automatic winding, 37 jewels and a power reserve of 38 hours, the 2894-2 can usually be spotted because it places the small seconds display at 3 o'clock rather than at 9 (common for most of its competition). Providing your watch can handle the thickness, the 2894-2 is a solid choice for a third party auto chronograph movement and is also used by Tag Heuer as the Calibre 17.
Next, you'll want to consider what the dial is like. Is it totally "blacked out" with stealthier indices and hands, or does it have some other sort of coloration included? If there's orange in there, then perhaps you could get away with a more orange-leaning brown strap, for example.
Why I chose this Romain Jerome Batman-DNA for Patrick Kansa: because underneath the veneer of the family-man-tech-geek-watch-nerd in fact lies the superhero that defends his hometown of Gotham (i.e., Chicago)... Seriously, this is a man, coming from a tech background, who likes his complications rendered impeccably, but who likes to fly under the radar. As Batman is known for his radar manipulation, what better to match his rubber underwear? And really, this watch touches the boy in all of us while still proving adult, elegant, and horologically insane. Now, if he's a really good boy in 2015 (i.e., gets his pieces in on time) he'll get one of these: Memorigin Batman Tourbillon Watch.
What Patrick Kansa Says:
For full appreciation of the crystal-clear melodic sound without inference from the mechanical oscillations, Jaeger-LeCoultre has added a silent regulator - an indispensable component of the chiming mechanism that is known to create a subtle but audible buzzing noise when the chiming is in operation. The resulting movement emits less noise, allowing for an easier appreciation of the sound of the trebuchet hammers.
Jean-Claude Biver - the person who heads the watch division at LVMH - joked that you could probably rename the Zenith brand to "El Primero" given how important the in-house produced El Primero movements are to the brand's overall persona and marketing strategy. While there have been a few 2014 models released with Swiss Sellita movements rather than in-house made El Primero or Elite movements, what I hear is that such practices will stop. Being a producer of their own movement is really important to Zenith, and they will maximize that element of their brand as much as possible.
The L952.1 movement is also a power hog. Despite the low frequency, the movement only has a total of 36 hours of power reserve - so it is a good thing that it has a power reserve indicator. I am not sure why there is such a low power reserve, but I can guess it is because there are so many functions and perhaps a few that "jump," which takes even more power. The power reserve indicator is located above the left subdial - which is also used for the running seconds and the day of the week. The big date indicator is where it has always been, and the right subdial now tracks the minutes counter for the flyback chronograph, month, as well as an overlapping leap year indicator. Where the power reserve indicator sat on the Datograph Up/Down, A. Lange & Söhne has now placed a moon phase indicator.
1. Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre à Chronographe Watch Review
This three-dimensional view is not just cool, but I believe is also very interesting to any watch enthusiast who is fascinated by the inner workings of a mechanical movement. The movement's plates display a subtle Côtes de Genève striping decoration, not as noticeable as seen on the backs of some other calibers – but that, in this case, is a good thing, as it helps the wave pattern and the skeletonization stand out more, and there really is no need for a third attraction on the dial.
For a watch that is predominantly black and silver, the choice of a brown leather strap seems a bit off, at least to my senses. Fortunately, I did have another 20mm strap with quick-change spring bars around, and confirmed: the Wellograph looks better with the darker strap. Given the quick change nature, even one made from rubber or ballistic nylon would present an even more "exercise ready" look. Fortunately, there are some other options available, as well as an all-black finish on the case.
Both the Breguet 7137 and 3137 are "Classique Power Reserve" models with the same complications, but each has a slightly different dial design and case size. Whereas the more modern 7137 is 39mm wide, the 3137 is 36.3mm wide - a size that was more common when it was introduced in the 1990s, or even earlier when the modern Breguet was very much a product of Daniel Roth's work there. In some ways, the 3137 has a more elegant dial, but it is not as intricate as the 7137 when it comes to design. People will likely choose between the two watches based on the size of timepiece they like to wear.
Gilt apparently suggested designer Michael Bastian to the folks at Hewlett-Packard. Bastian has watch design experience and was respected in the watch community. The high-end Swiss watch maker Audemars Piguet even worked with Bastian a number of times to place their timepieces on the wrists of Michael Bastian clothing collection runway models. Bastian accepted the project, and now, the three companies were set to embark on a journey that was intended to be a dream team of efforts from the three talented entities. Did they succeed?
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LVMH also needed an entry-level brand – something that TAG Heuer was historically very adept at filling. Rumors abounded that Jean-Claude Biver and Stephane Linder ran into some disputes over the changes at TAG Heuer. Linder was a sales leader for the company in the US before being asked to return to Switzerland to be CEO. Jean-Claude Biver was the man in charge. No doubt the changes at the company were difficult, but I agree with Mr. Biver that, while TAG Heuer produced some extremely cool stuff, it was losing what it was best at. There was also too much internal competition now between TAG Heuer and Zenith. Speaking of Zenith, Jean-Claude Biver has mentioned his intent for the company to focus once again on El Primero movement based sport watches.