For me, there are two reasons to get a Grand Seiko watch, the Hi-Beat movement which is a specialty of Seiko, as well as the Spring Drive movement. The special movement, case, and heritage complete the Japanese package for me. Emotionally it just wouldn't be the same with the more typical (though still in-house made) automatic movement or the quartz model. Yes, you get a lot of movement options in Grand Seiko range, but those are my choice picks. Grand Seiko will always have special meaning to me, one that I keep realizing each time I get more excited about a watch like this than I do a new 0,000 Swiss tourbillon based timepiece. Look for these where Grand Seiko watches are sold.
Nice attention to detail. Even the most aggressive delivery won't be a problem here.
The turf wars are getting serious. This time I look at the battle on US soil between Swiss brands Audemars Piguet and Hublot. The heat between them has been on for a few years now. Behind the scenes the fight goes on all the time - with each trying to one up each other. It isn't a battle they publicly acknowledge, but the drama is interesting. Winner, loser? I think in a sense they both win because competition leads to better business and clever thinking.
On the wrist the watch actually looks a bit smaller than its massive visual stature might suggest. A lot of it is in black rubber and black metal to emphasis the luminous green elements on the dial. If I didn't know better I would say this that watch looked like one of the coolest movie props around. It just has a distinct Hollywood vibe to it. This is also the watch Mathias himself has been wearing on his own wrist the last few times I have seen him. The dial has been meticulously designed by Mr. Buttet to be more legible than before, but also much more futuristic. Facing toward you on your wrist is a massive gaping maw of what is a vertical tourbillon staring at you. To operate the watch you have just two large crowns - one on each side of the case. It doesn't even need to the tell the time to look cool.
Run your fingers over the black ceramic and it feels good. Really a slick watch with a good look it given the classic sense of sporting equipment the case design of the watch has. One thing that does not impress me as much is the "RL" logo that is placed on the crown and bracelet clasp. It is done in a polished on matte style and in my opinion does not seem fitting with the watch or the positioning of the brand. The logo looks more appropriate for sun Ralph Lauren sunglasses, and is not in line with the held-back, more elegant Ralph Lauren logo on the dial.
Quality is great. Say all you want about Chopard, but they make a good looking, well put together watch. The Monaco Historique Time Attack MF is in a really well polished steel case that is 42.5mm wide and 14.5mm thick (ideal size for the case and design). It has a perfectly domed AR coated sapphire crystal, and that nicely engraved caseback. All I would improve is the 50 meters of water resistance. There is another steering wheel engraving on the crown, and the pushers feel good to the touch. Very few areas on the case are really sharp, but it doesn't look rounded either. For me the watch is perfectly comfortable with its elegantly curved lugs and beautiful bracelet. The watch came on a port-holed leather strap or this great looking metal bracelet.
The people at Perrelet are at it again, dancing the complication jig. This new Perrelet Regulator Retrograde watch mixes a few complications in a way that (to my knowledge) hasn't been done before. You have a retrograde hour display, regulator style separation between the hours, minutes, and seconds (that occupies the main dial), and a periphery style date display. The balance of the elements is quite good. Plus, there is likely to one one (or two) people in the world who have been dreaming for a watch that combines all these complications together.
- Number of jewels: 29
Speedmaster Geneva Auction Results
Listen to the HourTime Show watch podcast episode 80 here.
Download the MP3 here.
Archimede will offer the SportTaucher M with two dial colors: Black and blue. The black version has easy to see white hands and hour markers with red trim, the blue model is trimmed in orange and has a bit of a "tropical" feel to it.
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