The prototype version of the Engineer II Magneto S watch we played with at Baselworld 2014 wasn't quite ready for action so we didn't take pictures, but I can say that the concept works and the watch is cool looking. The Magneto S is 42mm wide and not too thick at 12.9mm. The overall design is rather military and retro inspired, especially with the cordura textile strap and green accents. I do like the legible dial and of course it is fitted with tritium gas tubes in the hands and hour markers for illumination. It's really a great watch if you like green accents, but not a green watch.
So why not offer a Logical One Secret with a solid red gold cover without any diamonds along with these two bejeweled versions? It would highlight the splendid proportions of the dials and the case while also disguising one of the coolest movements that are presently available– without reaching truly stratospheric price points, that is. As I see it, with a solid, non-bejeweled cover the Logical One Secret could possibly be one of the most refined dress watches presently available as it would have the restrained, dare I say stealthy looks paired with a unique exercise in high-end movement design.
Thinking about what I know in regard to most watch-buying consumer behavior, I don't think his choice of timepiece was an accident. People frequently make subconscious decisions about the items of importance they wear on a regular basis. During the 1980s owning a timepiece was more or less required, and the idea of a luxury watch was not nearly as pronounced as it is today. Still, I think the average person put a lot of thought into which models they chose to wear.
Every color has to be achieved by heating the material, everything has to be friction-fit or held together by screws. All dials are hand-painted enamel and every component of every movement is hand-finished. The sole reason behind this true obsession with traditional methods is durability: unlike glued and painted components, screwed parts, heated hands and enameled dials are known to stand the test of time.
As unassuming as "rubber strap" may sound, there actually are a vast number of options that come in ever more diverse levels of quality. Depending on where it comes from, it may actually be silicone rather than rubber, and the fit and finish may not look right against your watch. And what if your watch has a number of more unique features, as the Rolex Deepsea does with its integrated bracelet that follows the shape of the case, and its rather clever Glidelock Clasp that allows for easy adjustments? You don't want to leave that sitting in the drawer for a plain ol' tang buckle, do you? That, then, is where the Rubber B Rolex Deepsea Glidelock watch strap comes in.
The Gravity collection is a family of watches that are each part of a limited edition. The various Gravity collection watches are named for each of the four elements - and this piece being the Fire. Why not just call the collection "Elements?" Well that would make sense but Armin Strom has done that before, and the "Gravity" name refers to the operation of the automatic rotor. This isn't the first time a collection has models that each bear the name of an element. The idea is pretty simple though: Armin Strom chooses a movement and theme, and then produces four versions that offer various color and case material options.
The watch is indeed strange. Not that tanks themselves are particularly pretty, but they make a bold point when moving on treads toward you with a large gun. The SP-1 isn't inspired by modern tanks exactly, but early tanks known as landships. I believe some of these were used during WWI, and they looked more like armored wedges with smaller guns. I believe the idea was for them to serve more as armored troop transports rather than as mechanized attack vehicles (which they later evolved into). Anyhow, this early-take influence is good because the placement of a large gun turret on a timepiece would be awkward to say the least.
Do you know why there was such rapid expansion and growth of the luxury industry in China over the last few years? Because luxury brands more or less started from nothing there. Take a place as large as China, with as many people, and grow a market. The result will of course look amazing. So China was to be the golden land of opportunity for luxury watch makers because of massive amounts of money, especially new money, and a culture that was uniquely receptive to the "good word of Swiss watches." With an almost religious fervor, many Chinese clients appreciate the values and status associated with owning a fine timepiece. The problem is that with legal and political limitations of "high-end gifting" and stabilizing business growth, the Chinese markets are "maturing." That translates into a situation where luxury watch brands aren't seeing the double digit growth numbers they were hoping for.
Housed in a relatively austere 45.5mm case, and available in white or pink gold, the Terraluna features a perpetual calendar complication with day, date, and month displays, regulator-style time display with three separate hands registering hours, minutes, and seconds, leap year display, power reserve readout, and to top it all off? An orbital moonphase display is part of the movement, and is visible through the case back. The movement itself features a constant force escapement, and has a 14-day power reserve. In short, another masterpiece from Lange… let's hope they never stop coming.
For me this is the best part of the Stop2Go timepieces. The movement is interesting, but the new case design is very nice. In steel, the brushed case is 41mm wide and features a more modern, industrial design compared to the typical Mondaine look that people tend to think of. A unique feature is the crown, which is designed to look like a rocker switch. Hopefully it isn't too difficult to pull out, but it does look good. This is probably my favorite new Mondaine watch in quite some time.
Most everything about the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon watch is new, including six of the eight patents protecting the movement, the shape of the case that is inspired by a pocket watch from 1907, as well as the achievement the good people at Jaeger-LeCoultre have reached in regard to minimal case thickness for a grand complication watch. Even the beautiful dauphin-style hands are new. In one fell swoop Jaeger-LeCoultre's flagship timepiece for 2014 rewrites the formula for the perfect high-end dress watch. This is the type of watch that keeps us interested in horology and is easily a new grail piece for an entire demographic of watch collectors whose hearts have just skipped a beat. Let's proceed to discussing exactly what is so special about this new ultra-thin automatic minute repeater tourbillon from one of our favorite Swiss watch brands.
Sebastien Chaulmontet: I had been searching for years for a vintage Angelus Chrono-datoluxe, the first ever chronograph with a big date.
With the visage of Transformer Optimus Prime or Bumblebee on the dial, it is arguably easy to scoff at the themes presented here which are then combined with a tourbillon. Then again, these aren't 0,000 watches or anything close to that. No, and brands like Memorigin are making products aimed at aging Generation Y and Millennials who are either finally making disposable income or have some family money to spend and want products that comment on the things that inspire them. It might be silly to see Batman or other comic book and movie characters on a watch dial... but is it any more silly in concept than watches inspired by someone's racing, flying, or diving fantasies?
From a materials standpoint there are two versions, but each relies on case parts made from both titanium and steel. The bezel (front part) of the watch case is finely brushed steel for the Iron Knight, and the Dark Knight version has AlTin-treated black-colored steel. The caseback of the UR-105M is in black-colored titanium.
Glashutte, Germany is home to watch brands such as Glashutte Original (of course), A. Lange & Sohne, Nomos, and Tutima (among others). It has a long history of great German watch design, as well as making movements in-house. While Tutima is still focused on mostly durable sport watches, the Patria represents a more classic side of the brand. Its design is actually inspired by the Homage Minute Repeater, from case to dial, as well as the movement. Though, it just displays the time or two time zones depending on the model.
A honed eye is required to notice many of the smaller details that make this BR 123 collection was unique from others. One important element is the sapphire crystal which sits over the dial like a bowl similar to old acrylic crystals. This is a unique touch that I don't recall seeing on previous BR 123 models, and it works particularly well with the bezel style.
As far as aesthetics are concerned, what they did for this 2014 novelty is relocate the aperture into the hours and minutes sub dial, and hence remove it from its former location, the relatively small seconds-sub dial where it was more difficult to read and to appreciate. It is not a rare thing for brands to slightly re-design a dial and immediately call it a "novelty," but - as those who are familiar with Lange's demanding attitude would expect - there is a lot more going on than just that. For the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase, the brand re-engineered their L095 movement as well, and they did that not only to achieve the new dial layout, but also to enhance the performance of the moon phase mechanism. more »
It has been about four years since I last toured the halls of Audemars Piguet. The historic Swiss watch maker still makes movements in the same building that Mr. Audemars and Mr. Piguet did in the 19th century – though the company has expanded its footprint a bit since that time. Even now in 2014, plans for yet another addition to the Audemars Piguet presence in the sleepy mountain town of Le Brassus are being implemented. In several years an updated museum (with an exciting design that was recently unveiled) will open in a new and exciting space showcasing the brand’s true right to call themselves a high-end watch maker. Even most Audemars Piguet fans don’t know much about the company’s history until the 1970s, when the now iconic Royal Oak was first debuted. If they are smart, a focus of Audemars Piguet moving forward will be to both leverage their successful designs with their rich heritage, as one of the most innovative Swiss watch makers still in operation today.
Speaking of size, the PAM 372 utilizes the in-house P.3000 movement, a hand-winding calibre that measures a whopping 16½ lignes - roughly 37mm. The watch has a sapphire caseback that reveals the movement in its entirety. However, it’s simply finished and two large brush-finished bridges cover much of it, hence there’s really nothing much to look at it.