Jean-Claude Biver: For the time being, I am now looking for a new CEO, and should we have one in a few months, I will want to promote somebody who is already a member of our actual management team at TAG Heuer.
Note also that the Hautlence HL2 case has an asymmetrical sapphire crystal that wraps around the left-side of the case. Yes, Hautlence designed it so that you get a better view of the slowly rotating regulator system (balance wheel and escapement) which is placed on a rotating stack. The movement is among the most interesting that come to mind and goes to the heart of the Hautlence ethos, which is dedicated to telling the time "differently." In all, the movement is an automatic and displays the time with hours and minutes and also has a power reserve indicator.
Arnold & Son reminds us that this is the first movement in the world to combine a "jumping digital hours" complication with a "true beat" (dead beat) seconds hand – we don't challenge that claim. The overall dial and design is very attractive, though the scales on the periphery of the dial look a bit cluttered where the minute track is overlapped by the seconds track – a minor complaint. The central "time-carrousel" that holds the discs is in 18k red gold and contrasts well against the grey movement components underneath it.
Jorg Hysek has been spending a lot of time coming up with designs - something he does best - and we'd like to share some of his concept luxury smartwatches with you. I also took the time to meet with Jorg and discuss his thoughts about how the Swiss watch industry can play nice with smartwatch makers. These designs are really cool and we simply want them to be real sooner than later. Jorg was able to add a real emotional connection and sense of coolness to what, in many instances, are lacking designs in the smartwatch world. So here's what Jorg had to say, and let's hope some of these concepts will become a reality before long.
Above all, trade-seekers should demand full names of references who agree to be contacted. For watch owners pursuing a trade, the references are the most important part of the research process. Recent, numerous, accessible, and satisfied trading partners are the best safeguard for an informed trade-seeker. Don’t just request a dealer’s references – contact them.
Pausing the automatic rotor theoretically helps protect the mechanical movement if it is subject to shock. I suppose that is true, but this isn't a sports watch despite how modern and cool it is. The same theory applies to slowing down the automatic rotor by reducing its spin rate. Under certain circumstances, you are protecting the movement. It is really just a way to tweak and play with your watch. Urwerk really enjoys the idea of their timepieces being interactive and giving the wearer something to do - so the ability to mess with the functionality of the winding system plays into that. The movement also happen to operate at 4Hz.
The two, white lacquered subdials with their painted black indices and blued and skeletonized arrow hands make for relatively small, albeit legible displays for the hours and minutes, while a seconds-hand is entirely redundant as the tourbillons make for a more interesting substitute. A little detail that may not be obvious upon first sight is that the subdial at the 12 o'clock position sports Roman numerals, while the subdial in the lower segment of the dial has Arabic numerals – although I do wonder what the face of the Arnold & Son DTE would have looked like with two absolutely identical subdials.
Fortunately, unlike most other smart watches in the market right now, the SpeedUp SmartWatch does have a couple of useful standalone functions. It has an integrated pedometer, so it can keep track of the number of steps you have taken, distance covered, and calories burned. Furthermore, it can analyze the quality of your sleep too and show users how long they have slept and how much of it was “deep sleep”, for instance.
While this is not the first time we are seeing a major high-end brand use meteorite for its dials – the white gold Rolex Daytona springing to mind as another more interesting offering – it sure is fascinating to see this novel (and perhaps timeless) material find its way into such an elegant model of another highly refined Swiss brand. The result certainly is a mixed bag, in a sense that some will like the idea of the added depth and "action" to an otherwise rather conservatively styled piece, while others will arguably dislike it for the same reason.
Another interesting feature is the "manual perpetual calendar," which required the owner to engage a lever protruding through the band once every four years, allowing the perpetual calendar mechanism to adjust for the correct day. The Breguet No. 4111 also offered half-quarter repeating, in case the beautifully engraved, guilloché engine-turned silver dial was not legible in the dark.
Over 160 years have passed since then, and yet, Patek to this day avowedly strives to be amidst the top manufacturers when it comes to quality of execution. Having handled this watch – although my gaze is not as keen as that of the Queen – I do notice that, upon first look, every tiny component is finished with utmost attention to detail in mind. After all, the watch is powered by one of the finer hand wound movements in the world: the Calibre 215 PS LU (with "PS" standing for "petite seconde," i.e., the seconds subdial, and "LU" for "phase de lune," or moon phase), and the case is designed to be more unique than that of your average diamond-encrusted ladies' watch.
Now, Parmigiani jumps on the skeletonized-thin-dress-watch boat, with their Parmigiani Tonda 1950 Squelette – a rather handsome new timepiece that will be debuted at SIHH 2015, with a version for men and another for women. aBlogtoWatch originally debuted the Tonda 1950 back when Parmigiani released it in 2010 here. Agreeably attractive, the graceful shape of the Parmigiani Tonda 1950 combined comfort, legibility, thin-size, and a superb in-house automatic movement with a micro-rotor.
The consolation is of course the in-house movement and its 8 days worth of power reserve, and this movement would clearly be impossible to cram into a 38 millimeter wide case, as chances are that it just simply would not fit. In essence, is the new Portofino pure? Oh yes, it very much is. Is it Classic? Perhaps not so much – but only because of the more modern size. Regardless of the comparison to traditionally sized dress watches, we are looking forward to seeing the IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Pure Classic hands-on at SIHH in mid-January to get a personal feel of how this larger size works "in the metal." Price for the version in steel (Reference IW511102) is ,400, while the red gold model (Reference IW511101) is ,900. iwc.com
From a durability perspective, this is a pilot's watch, not a diver. So you'll have to deal with the 50 meters of water resistance, which is about standard for most of Breitling's ana-digi SuperQuartz timepieces. Over the dial, of course, is an AR-coated sapphire crystal. Good looking and useful, the Breitling Chronospace Military is a fine addition to their larger collection which very much fits the theme of the brand, as well as the type of persona Breitling has currently been pushing. The watch is, however, rather pricey, with the Breitling Chronospace Military having a retail price of ,915. breitling.com
HourTime Show Watch Podcast Episode 172: A Diver But Not For Diving
1 Commentby Ariel Adams
HourTime Show Watch Podcast Episode 172: A Diver But Not For Diving
In 2013, Topper’s first year as a Mühle Glashütte dealer, our best selling watch of the brand was the Seebatallion. For those unfamiliar with that watch, the Seebatallion is Mühle Glashütte’s extension of their popular S.A.R. Rescue-Timer. Its most signature aspect was the way that it combined the features of a dive and pilot watch. It also featured an attractive and somewhat conservative blue dial. This year, Mühle Glashütte has come out with another dive watch, called the "Kampfschwimmer" (“Combat Swimmers”). The watch is named for the German Navy’s oldest and most highly-trained special unit which operated missions at sea, on land and by air. While the watch shares much in common with the Seebatallion, it features many unique design aspects and a sawtooth-like bezel that is inspired by its namesake.
Remember, if your goal is to save money or spend as little as possible, then that interesting vintage watch with its attractive price can quickly become a money pit when it comes to repairing or servicing it. You are far better off purchasing watches that are less than 20 years old if you are looking to get a pre-owned timepiece as a way of saving money on buying a new one.
5. Save Up, Sell, & Trade Watches
Arkady, this is a good question, and one that doesn't have a simple straight-forward answer. The simple truth is that it really depends on the watch. In some instances, a black dial looks great with a brown strap, and at other times it looks terrible. The best watch brands are clever at combining watches and watch straps for pleasant results, but when they don't, you'll have to use your good taste in order to choose a look that is right for you. Here are some great thoughts from some of our writers.
Is that really a wrong thing? As far as I'm concerned, not at all; so long as athletes are not seeing the watch purchases as investments. If they view it like most of us WIS do, in the light of enjoying a luxury item and helping them with their sense of style, how can one argue with that? Watches from Hublot, while polarizing to many collectors, are natural to those, like affluent athletes, who are first getting into watches. Why? Well, Hublot watches are not that common (at least not when compared to some other names like Rolex, or Omega, or Breitling), yet have a variety of offerings covering a wide range of options – as well as novel materials – that make for the possibility of one finding his/her favorite model for self-expression, while not having to give up the "statement-factor" that comes with such an instantly recognizable brand. This, altogether, is a complete package that appears sure to attract a modern athlete.
The MKII Paradive that we were sent over for review is a military watch, but it's not derived from anything that was commercially available. Rather, they went into government specs, and settled on a watch that was issued to US Special Forces (and CIA maritime units) for a few decades from the 1960's to the mid-1980's. Rather than simply copying out what the specs said, and making a consumer-level variant, they went and did something that seems very similar to what resto-modders do for old cars - start with the original, keep the external design mostly intact, and then upgrade and improve like crazy wherever you can.
Ultimately, it is this diversity that should make this beautifully illustrated book a good read for most, as there are a lot of new things to learn regardless of one's knowledge of the industry or familiarity with Kari Voutilainen and his stellar work. To me, personally, it was getting to know one of horology's all time greats better through not just reading about him, but also from him. The Theodore Diehl: Kari Voutilainen Horlogerie d'Art Book is by no means cheap, but is a lasting investment. It is a highly recommended read for those fascinated by the unique world of independent watchmakers – and by the story of one of the very best among them.