Here's a comparison shot with the Blackbeard we first reviewed:
When it comes down to it, Nolan and Gawker overall seem to be irritated with vanity. Oh yes, one of the seven deadly Christian sins. That epicenter of all that is asshole boils down to one person trying to alpha another. A fantastically funny bullet list ends Nolan's piece on the asshole watch lover. He is careful to leave out the dedicated and educated watch enthusiast. Mostly showing anger to the wannabe watch man. I'll give him this: you can't buy yourself into being a watch lover. You need to be educated. Careful experience with watches breeds good taste and knowledge. Otherwise you are an over-funded poser, and no one likes that. Not even assholes.
What is it?
Capillary-style depth gauges are nothing new or particularly advanced, but they are simple and effective. Oris has managed to design one into one of its dive watches. The result is a mechanical watch with a non-electronic depth gauge that does not cost an arm and a leg. IWC and Jager-LeCoultre already proved to us that they can make those - and that is fantastic - but they were a complication for complication's sake because even if you choose to dive with a luxury watch, you probably aren't going to want to rely on it as your depth gauge. When Panerai released theirs, they simply circumvented the entire issue by keeping prices high and sticking in an electronic depth gauge module. In fact, that was pretty smart of them.
One can only hope.
The Lemania 5100 layout sometimes looks like a Valjoux 7750 at first, but it is not. It featured central seconds and minute hands for the chronograph, and a 24 hour AM/PM indicator. The BR 126 Blackbird does not contain a Lemania, but it does contain a Swiss ETA 2892 with a special module produced by Dubois Depraz that recreates the functions of the famed Lemania. Thus, the Bell & Ross BR 126 Blackbird has orange colored central seconds and minutes hands for the chronograph, as well as an orange hand for the subsidiary hours counter. The other two subdials are for the AM/PM indicator and the seconds indicator. Unlike most BR 126 models, there is also a sloped flange ring around the dial (with tachymeter scale) that offers a more expansive look. You should also notice that the hour and minute hands are styled after the BR01 Heritage watches. Last, the chronograph has a flyback function - which is a nice little piece of icing on the cake.
Three additional windows are added to the dial for the perpetual calendar system, which is so cool because rather than use a dial with hands, the movement digitally indicates the month and date. These windows each use two discs so you have a "big date" display as well as a "big month" display and a leap year indicator in the lower sub dial. Note that the chronograph features a flyback complication and the Calibre 89802 automatic movement has a power reserve of 68 hours... more »
So much of the case and movement are thoughtfully designed and engineered. Hublot knew from the outset that the Ferrari relationship wasn't just a PR stunt, but a major opportunity. An opportunity to potentially align itself with an extremely powerful and well-known high-end automaker for a long time to come. Many have tried and failed with Ferrari and Hublot did not want to be one of them. In Biver's own words, part of his tactic was not merely to create new dials with the Ferrari logo, but a brand new and outstanding watch to celebrate the relationship. True enough, the Big Bang Ferrari watches are unlike any other in the Hublot collection, and the customized details are meaningful and plentiful.
Omega Speedmaster .861
It's the end of August and we take a close look at Panerai's new tourbillon pocket watch and also what some diehard Paneristis think about the direction the brand is taking. Elsewhere, we review IWC's very classy new Portuguese Chronograph Classic, Schofield's exquisite Signalman DLC and Chanel's very shiny J12 Chromatic. Lastly, we check out Ball's stealthy Engineer Hydrocarbon Black and Harry Winston's new watches for this year.
Watches that emerge from the Voutilainen workshop in Môtiers, Switzerland are the kind of creations that can weaken the knees of any watch nerd. Their entirely handmade watches are the result of one Kari Voutilainen, a Finnish watchmaker trained at WOSTEP with a specialization in restoring complicated and rare wristwatches. After eventually teaching at WOSTEP, Kari launched his own independent brand in 2002. Voutilainen watches represent a very special proposition to a specific type of enthusiast collector, or more simply put, if you can afford one, do it. Characterized by extremely limited production, customized service and the promise of something both technically interesting and quite beautiful, a Voutilainen would be a prize in any collection. This year at Baselworld, we got a chance to spend a few minutes with their lovely V-8R, an elegant dress piece with an interesting movement and stunning details.
I liked the Octo long before it had a Bulgari name on it. Though under the Genta name the Octo never had such a simple dial as this. In fact, for much of the last decade or two, the Gerald Genta brand was dedicated to coming out with truly insane watches. Some beautiful, some fugly, but all marvelous for what they were. The Octo was a unique creation that continued to celebrate Genta's fascination with eight-sided cases. The Royal Oak had eight sides, and so does the Octo, in addition to the sides of the inner bezel. If you think about it, the case design on the Octo is incredibly complex from a design perspective, because it looks so simple but isn't.
Another Batman watch here for you "The Dark Knight Rises" fans. Please be aware that this watch is a prototype. This means that the final version already has a number of planned changes and quality improvements. UPDATE: This article has been updated to include images of the final version of the Memorigin Batman Tourbillon watch (with a larger logo, bracelet, and some other updated design elements). Hong Kong based "tourbillon only" watch maker Memorigin will produce this Batman Tourbillon as part of its Military collection. I think it looks rather neat being relatively simple.
The new model (CA0515-02L) isn't a massive departure from the earlier Eco-Drive Scuba Fin models, but it does have some freshened looks, sporting a blue (or orange) dial that earlier iterations don't quite have. Don't forget there is a chronograph as well. That blue also carries over to the 26mm polyurethane strap. While this looks like it would be a fine enough material for hitting the water, it does give me some pause for concern. It's hard to tell from the pictures, but it does look like the strap is integrated directly to the lugs - which means replacement options are limited, a strike in my book.
Ball Engineer II Annual Calendar
The Octo was a watch case design that was released under the Gerald Genta name but later took on Bulgari (Bvlgari) branding. The story is a bit odd, but it makes sense if you look at it in context. As in most businesses it is a habit of larger companies to buy smaller companies. That is either to put them out of business or incorporate their value into the parent companies. Smaller, but noteworthy brands like Gerald Genta are routinely purchased by larger brands. Actually, in an ironic turn of events, the Gerald Genta brand was purchased by Bulgari in about 1999. Bulgari was then purchased by the larger LVMH luxury group a bit over a decade later. For a while Gerald Genta remained a free-standing brand. Then, during the financial crisis, Bulgari decided to consolidate and incorporated the Gerald Genta and Daniel Roth brands into the Bulgari brand (discussed here in 2010). This happened before the LVMH purchase of Bulgari.
Now, while HM1 was an incredible story, what people don’t really know is that we virtually went bankrupt at some point. What happened is this: we get the funds in and we are working with all the “Friends”, everything is going super well; by April 2006 we already had a working prototype in a gold case! Then, just after Basel, one of the main supplying partners, the one who manufactures the movement has a big financial problem and sells his company to a brand. Of course the brand didn’t buy that supplier to craft movements for MB&F, it bought it to craft movements for themselves! Bottom line, the delivery kept on getting delayed…
There is marked improvement in the speed that hands move compared to older quartz analog Casio watches. This is done when switching functions. Though, it still isn't as fast as changing between functions on a digital G-Shock. Features you'll enjoy using are the 1/20th of a second chronograph (easy to use), world timer (easy to use), alarm (easy to use), countdown timer (easy to use) and calendar (easy to view). With the Tough Movement and Smart Access, this is clearly an evolution of Casio's production of quartz multi-function analog watches. While these analog G-Shocks look fantastic, they simply aren't as user friendly or as fast as their digital cousins.